#7 ~ Princess Seams (Princess Style Lines)

Fashion Design - Pattern Making Pattern Making for Fashion Design
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Princess Seams (or Princess Lines) - creating design style-lines using existing Slopers.

Transcript

And we're back. I hope you've been practicing your pattern making skills. Pattern making is a complex skills it takes time to master. So, practice and do your homework. Today we'll talk about our princess style lines and Princess seems there's a couple different variations. Here are two variations one you can clearly see the scene is going from the waistline into the shoulder and the second one is going into the armhole.

Right? Here's a clear indication where the seam goes right into the shoulder. This is an old vintage illustration, but it clearly shows you a princess style line. Right and this clearly shows that it goes into the armhole. And here's a more modern version of a princess styling into the arm again and this is a bad A variation back version of it. So let's get to work.

By now you know the routine right, you start with a piece of paper, we're going to take our two dots sloper and trace your pattern all the way around your notches are clearly marked. Make sure your Apex is marked as well. Next, we're going to redraw the legs of the darts. But this time, we're going to draw them to the apex right to the apex. Remember, originally, the vanishing point is not touching the apex, but this time, we're going to draw the legs to the apex. I'm going to put a notch right at the apex right across the apex right here, because in a minute, we're going to separate these two pieces and the knotch will help us connect the two pieces back together.

We have removed the darts. We're going to do one minor adjustment around the apex on the site panel. You see we have a very sharp corner at the apex on the side panel. So using your French curd or the hip curve, we're going to round this out and smooth this corner. So at this point, we're pretty much done with the drafting part of it. So that when you sew the seam together, like This This becomes our princess style line with princess sing from the waistline into the shoulder, see, okay, for this second variation, we're going to put the style line into the armhole instead of the shoulder.

And we're going to use the one Dart sloper. And as always, we're going to line up center front with one of these numbers on the paper and trace your pattern all the way around. Once again, we're going to redraw the legs of the Dart to the apex like this. Next, we're going to draw the stylet line from the apex into the armhole. There's no specific point. somewhere in the middle of the armhole is a good place to create the skyline.

So we'll put a little cross mark right here. here and with your French curve, we're going to draw a line. It's a curved line from the apex into the armhole, like so. Next we're going to cut the pattern out, cut the dark out, we're going to remove the dark, just like we did in the previous exercise, remove the dark and also we're going to cut on the style line, the princess die line that goes from the apex into the armhole. And just like we did in the previous exercise, we go into smooth and round out this corner, which at times can be a little too sharp, so it's a little more smooth. One final note This side panel, the grain line, we haven't talked about grain lines, but we will in the next class, the grain line in a side panel.

The grain line is perpendicular to the waistline so the grain line would look something like this. If you don't know what a grain line is, stay tuned because next class I will explain Greenline once you add some allowance, this gets sewn together like this, and this becomes your princess style line into the armhole. Okay. So there you have it, I want you to look at pattern making from a creative standpoint. And what I mean by that is, if you know a little bit of sewing, maybe you can cut one section in one color, and the other segment different color. And in the case of the skirt that we did in the last class, maybe you can cut the yoke in one color The lower section, the sharing part of the skirt in a different color.

So be creative. Have fun with it. Okay, next class.

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