#5 ~ Dart manipulation: Slash-and-Spread

Fashion Design - Pattern Making Pattern Making for Fashion Design
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Slash-and-Spread - another very important principle and technique in pattern drafting: how to change an existing pattern to create a new design, using the slash-n-spread method.

Transcript

Okay, so we've learned the pivoting technique. There's one final note. Right now this waistline dark goes from the apex in this direction towards the waistline. But what if you say, you know, I rather see it going in the sights scene, or a towards the armhole, or towards the shoulder, you see you can pivot this one died in all different kinds of direction. I'm going to take a minute and show you how to do that. Check this out.

Okay, so here we go. First, we decide the new direction of the Dart, we want to pivot this Dart. And let's say we want to pivot into the sightseeing. So we pick a point Mark cross mark, onto the sightseeing, where we want the new Dart to end up. we line up center front with one of these dots or letters. And we start by putting our cross mark right on the dotted paper and we start tracing the pattern all the way around, shoulder neckline.

Down center front until we come to the first leg of the dark. All right, pro crossmark right there, using the apex as the pivoting point. Okay, always the apex is the pivoting point. We'll take the second notch the second leg and pivot so it ends up on top of the first notch like that. And then trace the remainder of the pattern until we end up where we started from, which is right there, pull cross mic right there. Make sure your Apex is clearly marked like this will cross mark right there.

And there is our new dark. I'm not going to show you how to true the dark. If you need to refresh your memory go back to the previous lesson, and then you can establish a new dark. So there you have it. Okay, for this next exercise, I'm going to show you a technique called slash and spread. I'm going to use a skirt pattern for this one, I draped a very basic, very simple, two dots skirt.

I've transferred the muslin drape to dotted paper, stapled dotted paper to Manila as we've done previously, I now have a very basic pattern for a skirt with two darts. Going to show you again Through slash and spread, how to take a very basic two dot skirt and turn it into an A line skirt. All right, let's get to it. Okay, so we start with our to Dart skirt sloper. I've put a little tiny hole at the end of the Dart, the end of the Dart is known as the vanishing point. So sure your legs of the Dart are notched.

Like that. And now we're going to trace this pattern onto data paper. I have traced my pattern. Make sure that you mark the vanishing point of the dark and make sure that your notches are clearly visible. Next I'm going to draw the Dart the legs of the Dart. Next I'm going to draw a straight line from the vanishing point or the dark, straight down to the hemline, like so.

Next I'm going to cut out this pattern. I'm going to cut on this pencil line from the hemline all the way up to the vanishing point of the die, right here and stop. So we've slashed these two guidelines Next we're going to close the dark by taking one leg, folding it over on to the other leg as we've done previously, closed the dark blue scotch tape over it. So as you can see, here's the slash and spread technique in action. Next, I've put a piece of paper underneath. And the last thing to do now is to blend the hemline.

I have used my hip curve or French curve to blend and reshape the hemline of the skirt. The darts are gone. We now have a very simple a line skirt. But I take this too Manila stapling to Manila, and we have a new pattern. There you have it. Okay, in the next class, we're going to take this pattern we just made, and we're going to create a yoke style line to the skirt.

And then we're going to slash and spread the pattern to add fullness. So we'll have sharing or gathers. So we're going to incorporate several different techniques, so it's going to be good. Alright, see you next class.

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