#8 ~ Tucks, Pleats, Darts, Grainlines, Labeling patterns

Fashion Design - Pattern Making Pattern Making for Fashion Design
4 minutes
Share the link to this page
Copied
  Completed
Drafting tucks and pleats using an existing dart. The importance of a grainline and its effect on a design. Labeling patterns correctly. Conclusion.

Transcript

All right, so we've come to the end of our course. This is our final class. I'm going to go over darts, pleats, tux. I'm going to talk about grain lines, and how to label a pattern correctly. So let's get to work. Okay, by now we are familiar with a dark.

These are the legs of the dark vanishing point, apex. When we stitch the legs closed, we ended up with a Dart. But if we only fold the fabric over like this, and stitch only in the seam, like this, for example. This is a pleat. So I have not sewn the legs together. I've left it open.

This is a clip I've only shown right here. And if I only saw down to a certain point, let's say I only saw the legs to a certain point like here, this is known as a tuck. So a dark a pleat and the top is drafted the same way, but it's how it is sewn, that determines if it's a dart or a pleat or attack. Okay, let's talk about green lines. Let's pretend this is a roll of fabric, I pull out the fabric. This is known as the length grain of the fabric.

This is known as the cross grain of the fabric. There's also a third grain line which is known as the bias at a 45 degree angle. And the edge of the fabric is known as salvage. Okay, I've made this cute little pattern here. I've drawn a grain line and labeled a grain line, this line right here, which is parallel to center front. And the purpose of a grain line is to tell us how to place the pattern onto the fabric.

See, without a green line, we have no idea how to place this pattern onto this fabric This way, this way this way, but with a green line, the green line is always parallel to the salvage. So it goes like this, not like this, not like this, but it's always parallel to the salvage. Which brings us to our next topic, which is labeling patterns. What information do we put on these patterns? The first thing we do is we put a green line. The green line is always well not always most of the time is parallel to center front.

You You don't have to write green line on it. It's sort of it's a given, it's understood that if you see a green line like that, with a little arrow at the top in the bottom, that's a green line. Next we write what is known as the pattern ID identification. Other words, is it a front? Is it a back? Is it a sleeve?

Is it a cough? Is it a waistband? What is in this case, it's a front, so I've labeled it front. Next we write the size. What size is this pattern? I've draped this pattern from a Muslim on a size four form, therefore this is a size four.

Next is the cut amount and we circle the correct amount. Meaning how many pieces do we cut? If you have a sleeve, you have two sleeves, you cut two. If you have a collar, it's only one piece of color, you cut one. So all this information must be written on the pattern. Each pattern piece must be labeled Okay, so we are done with this course.

I hope you've learned a few things about pattern making. It takes a lot of time and practice to really master pattern making. There's so many things to learn. This was a very basic class. It's the tip of the iceberg a lot more than please email me with questions. I answer all my emails, any suggestions on what my next course should be?

Maybe you want to learn sketching or draping or whatever, let me know, email me. So until we meet again, have fun, be creative. And I will see you all

Sign Up

Share

Share with friends, get 20% off
Invite your friends to LearnDesk learning marketplace. For each purchase they make, you get 20% off (upto $10) on your next purchase.