Men's Bespoke Trouser Making: Belt Loop Style

Learn a simple step-by-step guide to making a pair of men’s bespoke trousers.

Men's Bespoke Trouser Making: Belt Loop Style

Learn a simple step-by-step guide to making a pair of men’s bespoke trousers.
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About the Class

At The HTA, we have promised to bring Savile Row style bespoke tailoring to you in HD ‘how-to’ videos. After much consultation with present and former students, we have decided to lead with the belt loop plain fronts trousers.
*There will be a follow-up series in the future where we will make our signature brace-top/half band with pleats and turn-up hems.

As requested, we have added side straps and buckles as well as inside brace buttons.

Like all our video series, we start off with the most commonly used draft, ‘The Straight Leg’ trouser draft. Notes are available in the description of the first episode.
All notes found in these video series are taken from our book, “Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System”.

The cloth, linings, and trimmings used in this series are taken from The HTA trimming packages available from Dugdale Brothers (dugdalebros.com) - trimming merchants to all of Savile Row.

For demonstration purposes, we have chosen a 36” waist trouser size, so when you are following the series it gives the closest representation to any size you may decide to make.

Trouser makers over time collect smaller pattern pieces which they use when trimming their trousers. These pattern pieces are often passed from master to apprentice. So in the spirit and traditions of Savile Row, we have made these same pattern pieces available to you (available in the description of the first episode - Drafting the Pattern).

As much as we wanted to stay true to the traditions of Savile Row and make purely bespoke trousers, we had to accept two things. First, very few trouser makers still make purely bespoke, and secondly, our audience is made up of mostly novice tailors who might not yet possess the confidence and abilities to execute a 100% traditional bespoke garment just yet. So the prepping in this series does contain more fusing than one would expect. This doesn’t mean it isn’t bespoke, it simply means it isn’t traditionally bespoke.

This series follows every aspect of trouser making from draft to cut, lay, and inlays to lining the topsides, making the pockets and fly, to waistband and curtains.

We have decided on the belt loop style, as I mentioned earlier, paired with slanted pockets and a double jetted back pocket. The reason I chose these styling details is that they are the easiest to do.

As some of you may know, I am my own favorite customer and will be making these trousers for my own wardrobe. I have never made myself a belt loop trouser before, but have done so for plenty of clients. One, in particular, is my father who I am sure will make an appearance at some point in these online courses.

Anyone can become a bespoke tailor. All you need is passion, patience, and a ‘can-do attitude and you will succeed.

My belief is, to be a Savile Row tailor is to be trained by a Savile Row tailor.
Welcome to the club and I hope you enjoy the series.

For more information on courses, visit handcrafttailor.com

⭢ Link to The Handcraft Tailor blog: handcrafttailor.com/blog
⭢ Link to The Handcraft Tailor forum: handcrafttailor.com/forum

Author

Rory Duffy

Fifth generation Savile Row trained master tailor

School

Rory Duffy's School

Requirements

To take this course you will need access to the following:

For the draft:

  • Paper for drafting on
  • 12-inch French curve
  • 24-inch Hip curve
  • L-Square
  • Grading ruler

*The HTA uses Fairgate, Hand, and Lance brand rulers. These can be purchased from Amazon and/or eBay*

For the making:

A straight stitch and serge stitch machine. If you don’t have a serger/over-locker, pinking shears will do.

All items can be purchased from Dugdale Brothers:

  • A sharp pair of shears/scissors
  • Tailor's chalk
  • Sewing needles
  • Basting cotton
  • Machine cotton
  • Thimble
  • Trimming package with all necessary components for making a pair of trousers
Subscription
$17.40
per month

What's Included

Language: English
Level: Beginner
Skills: Men’s Bespoke Trousers Style, Pattern Cutting, Belt Loop Style, Trouser Making
Age groups: All ages
Duration: 13 hours 19 minutes
29 Videos
1 Document
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